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Breath by Tim Winton
Breath is set in a small town on the west coast of Australia where Bruce Pike, nicknamed Pikelet, and his pal, Loonie are bored teenagers who decide to take up surfing. They fall under the spell of a man they see as a heroic surfer, Sando, who dares them to take things to extremes. They surf shark-infested waters, storm swells, and dangerous reefs while exploring how far they can push themselves. Sando, who refuses to talk about his past, eventually plays the boys off against each other, while his wife, an American who used to be a daredevil skier before injuring her knee, has her own plans for extreme behavior with Pikelet. Pikelet's first steps into manhood threaten to undo whatever he might become. Tim Winton's novel has received positive reviews with BookPage saying, "This is not an easy book, despite its brevity, but it is a stunning one and one whose visceral imagery will remain with the reader long after the story is over."